Better known for red wine, the region of Bordeaux still manages to produce nearly seven million cases of white wine annually, which can be every bit as distinctive as its iconic reds. Geographically, the epicenter of the area’s dry white production lies in the Entre-Deux-Mers (“between the two tides”) sub-region, situated between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. The area’s gravel-rich soils make it ideal for growing crisp, racy, mineral-driven whites that represent a completely unique expression of the popular Sauvignon Blanc grape.

The best examples—such as this one from artisan winemaker Jean Marc Barthez, who serves as president of a small co-operative winery in the ancient village of Monségur—will overturn everything you’ve come to expect from the usual lineup of “varietal” Sauvignon Blanc from Chile or New Zealand. Sourced from vineyards that surround the winery and fermented without oak to preserve the underlying expression of its classic terroir, this is Sauvignon Blanc as channeled through the unique prism of Bordeaux.

With its cleansing acidity and flavors of citrus and melon, it possesses the deeper texture, elegance, and richness of body that are the region’s hallmarks. According to Jean Marc, part of that depth also results from the small touch of Sémillon (the region’s “other” white grape) he includes in the blend, which imparts a certain “je ne sais quoi” that immediately conjures white Bordeaux. A quintessential oyster wine, according to Mary it has all the necessary structure to stand up to richer fish and shellfish dishes like pan-seared trout or broiled lobster.